I’m positive lovers of Indian food make quick work of heaping mango chutney to go with that Vindaloo and for the less audacious I know you’ve slapped some bodacious relish on a dog.
The terminology can be confusing with relishes, chutneys, confits, mostarda? How do you differentiate them or do you even care? If you are a mindful gourmand you’ll engage in making your own, because let’s face it, these accompaniments are fundamental in elevating dishes to make them croon like Bublé.
RELISHES
Relish came about in the late 1700’s from the French word “reles” literally meaning “something remaining”. Here, the triumvirate trio of salt, vinegar and sugar reign supreme. With pickles we leave the vegetables whole, but with relishes a fine mince is procured.
I would’ve never presumed of making my own relish. When I finally relented, I will never go back to the store-bought kind! It is ridiculously simple to make and the results are epic, not to mention the ability to control what goes in it. It’s the quintessential accoutrement for a dog. Try it on a burger instead of pickles and let me know what you think. Outstanding, right?
HOTDOG RELISH
2 English hothouse cucumbers – peeled cubed roughly
1 each red and green bell pepper – chopped roughly
½ TSP of mustard seeds
¼ TSP of celery seeds
¼ cup of white sugar
½ onion – chopped roughly
1 bay leaf
½ cup of ACV
½ cup of water
Kosher salt
Peel and chop the cucumbers roughly and with a small spoon scoop out the seeds. Place them in a colander for about 2-3 hours with some salt to bring out their water, rinse and pat dry. In a pan, sauté the bell peppers for about 5-6 minutes to remove raw flavor and soften slightly – not mushy though.
Place everything in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, promptly remove from the stove, cover and allow to cool down. Remove bay leaf and puree with immersion blender leaving it chunky. Store in glass containers.
NOTE– You’ll thank yourself that you capitulated and made this, it’s not only outstanding but keeps in the fridge for about 2 months. Good dog combo: grill your dog and your bun (that is key), add some mustard, kraut, relish, some sweet chili sauce and some raw sweet onions. Amalgamate all that together and let me know if that isn’t your new fave!
CHUTNEYS
The word derives from the Hindu term “chatni” and was introduced to western society by schooner ship captains plying the spice trade. Within the chutney family, mango is quite possibly the most notable, as it accompanies many dishes in Indian cuisine. Chutneys are both savory and sweet and temper the fiery nature of curries. Additionally, they pair excellently well with grilled meats and it’s an outstanding garnish to lamb and buffalo burgers, not to mention with a charcuterie board to elevate sharp cheeses flavors.
MANGO CHUTNEY
3 mangoes – peeled and chopped roughly
½ cup of granulated sugar
½ cup of finely chopped shallots
¼ cup of ACV
1 TSP ghee
½ TSP of mustard seeds
Pinch of cinnamon
Pinch of red pepper flakes
2 TBSP of finely chopped ginger
½ TBSP of lemon juice
1 TSP of Madras curry powder
½ TSP of turmeric
Pinch of Kosher salt
In a medium sized sauce pan add the ghee, when hot sweat the shallots. Add the mustard seeds, red pepper flakes, curry powder, turmeric and cinnamon. Allow and the mustard seeds to pop and add the ginger, the mango, ACV, sugar and lemon juice. Simmer for about 20-30 minutes until it has thickened in consistency. Remove from the heat and add a pinch of salt, tasting to adjust seasonings.
CRANBERRY APPLE CHUTNEY
Not only do I serve this sweet-tart classic at Thanksgiving together with the Apple chutney, but I also prepare it during the year, as it goes brilliantly well with roast pork loin, grilled lamb or pork chops and roasted portabella mushrooms.
2 Granny Smith apples – peeled, cored and cut into small squares OR 3 Bosch pears
1 package of frozen cranberries or 2 cups of fresh
1 cup of brown sugar
½ cup of water
¼ cup of ACV
½ cup of crystalized ginger – minced
1 TSP of Gourmet Garden Ginger Paste
2 large shallots chopped finely
½ cup of walnuts – chopped
Pinch of Kosher salt
Sweat the shallots in some olive oil till translucent with a pinch of salt. Add half the cranberries, the apples (or pears), water, ACV, sugar and simmer for about 15 minutes stirring a few times to prevent them from sticking. Add the crystalized ginger and paste, the walnuts and the rest of the cranberries simmering until they have pooped – about 5-6 more minutes. Remove from the heat and allow it to cool completely. Leave it chunky or smash with a potato masher before serving. Can be refrigerated up to a week.
NOTE –The addition of ginger imparts a very tangy and phenomenal bite. When I get adventurous, I concoct another version including fresh rosemary and lemon.
APPLE CHUTNEY
I’ve served this alongside cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving. It was so well received that the cranberry sauce was all but forgotten.
2 Golden Delicious Apples – peeled, cored and chopped into small chunks
¼ chopped sweet onion – Maui or Vidalia
1 TBSP of minced fresh ginger
¼ cup of ACV
½ cup of fresh squeezed OJ
½ cup of dark brown sugar
1 TBSP of honey
½ TSP molasses
½ TSP of mustard seeds
1 cinnamon stick
1 pinch of red hot pepper flakes or ½ TSP of Aleppo pepper
1/8 TSP of ground allspice
Small pinch of ground cloves
Pinch of kosher salt
½ cup of sultanas
Place all the ingredients in a medium sauce pan and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 45 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated and allow to cool at room temperature. Remove the cinnamon stick and use a potato masher to gently mash all ingredients. Adjust seasonings.
NOTE– Make sure you use a very small pinch of the gloves; it’s quite potent and he flavor will overtake the other ingredients. This chutney is superb with grilled meats or shrimp and simply married with crackers and cheese. Spread it on sandwich rolls with leftover turkey and stuffing the day after Thanksgiving.
TOMATO CHUTNEY – TAMATAR KI CHATNI
This is a swoon-worthy chutney that borderlines a thick tomato sauce with Indian flavors. It’s exceptional with curries, on sandwiches, with grilled meats and vegetables and you’ll definitely find ways of using it all up.
5 tomatoes – skinned and chopped (fresh is better – canned tomatoes for this Chutney don’t work too well)
2 TBSP of garlic/ginger paste
1 TBSP of coconut oil
10 curry leaves
¼ tsp of chili flakes
1 TBSP of ACV
1 TBSP of Madras curry powder
1 TSP of cumin seeds
½ TSP of turmeric
2½ TBSP of white sugar
½ TSP of mustard seeds
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
Boil some water and soak tomatoes for about 2 minutes to remove their skins before chopping. In a pan or wok heat up the coconut oil. Add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, curry leaves, chili flakes and curry powder. Toast well and then add the garlic/ginger paste – cook for a minute till aromatic. Add the chopped tomatoes and blend with the cooked paste. Incorporate the ACV, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer on low until tomatoes are soft – about 30-35 minutes and most of the liquid has evaporated. Serve at room temperature.
CONFIT
Confit comes from the French meaning ‘candied” as the most common way to prepare tomato comfit is to slow roast them in the oven to bring out their sweetness. However, the method in which duck confit is prepared, applies here. The slow cooking process with copious amounts of olive oil, makes for a concentration of umami flavors and sweetness that is off the charts good and it will revolutionize your world. Using sweet, summer ripened tomatoes fits the bill and the end result is the most glorious jam-like savory sauce.
TOMATO CONFIT
5-6 large vine ripened tomatoes
8 garlic cloves – peeled and left whole
½ cup of Olive oil
1 TBSP balsamic vinegar
2 TBSP brown sugar
1 sprig of fresh rosemary
Kosher salt
¼ TSP of Aleppo pepper (optional)
Heat up some water and when boiling, dunk the tomatoes in for about 2 minutes. Drain over a colander and immerse them in a bowl of ice water. Remove the skins and the seeds, chopping them into medium sized squares. Allow them to drain in a mesh colander for about 30 minutes to remove as much of their juices as possible.
In a skillet with high sides add the oil and garlic cloves, bringing the heat up gradually. Incorporate the tomatoes and the rosemary sprig and braise for about 1½ – 2 hours, stirring every once in a while, so they don’t stick to the bottom. Add the sugar, vinegar and kosher salt and cook for a further 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and skim most of the oil on the surface reserving for other uses. Scoop out the tomato jam and store it in a sealed glass jar in the fridge up to 2 weeks.
NOTE–The confit is outstanding on crostinis, dolloped on top of margarita with roasted garlic pizza with arugula; served with a cheese platter (ensure you include a good chunk of creamy blue); as spread for sandwiches and killer on grilled cheese. The tomato flavored oil is deep in umami flavor so it’s worth its weight in gold.
MOSTARDA
It most definitely isn’t mustard. It’s made from fruit and it its closer to a relish. As the name implies, it contains mustard overtones and it’s a Northern Italian condiment that accompanies mostly cold cuts and cheeses in a charcuterie board, similar in consistency to caponata but with fruits and no vegetables. It’s not acidic, salty, fiery or sweet – all the flavors combined make it truly a candidate for the umami department.
¼ cup of dried apricots – chopped
¼ cup of dried cranberries
2 Granny Smith apples – peeled cored and chopped
1 shallot – finely minced
1 TBSP white vinegar
1 Bosch pear – peeled cored and chopped
2 TBSP of coarse Grey Poupon mustard
1 TSP dry mustard
2 bay leaves
1 TSP crystalized
¼ cup of water
¼ cup of Moscato wine or sweet sherry
1 TSP butter
2 TBSP sugar
In a medium sauce pan add the fruits, ginger, water, wine, sugar, vinegar, shallot and bay leaves. Simmer covered until fruits are soft and most of the liquid has evaporated. Add the mustards and the butter and simmer another 5 minutes until it has achieved a jam-like consistency. Serve at room temperature and refrigerate up to a week.
