‘WHERE WOULD WE BE WITHOUT SALT?” JAMES BEARD
The momentum of artisan food continues to barrel forward with something retro taking the spotlight, it seems like every other day.
Pucker up – pickle-palooza is one of the current cutting rages and is here to stay. And, no, I am not talking about the pickling your grandma would make for picnics or winter pantry storage, either. The pickling fixation has slammed into food circles with chefs and gourmands alike elevating dishes with brined garnishes and sides that are as avant-guarde as they are unorthodox. For the past 2-3 years, pickling has reaffirmed its claim to fame and become a blockbuster not to be ignored.
Extending to the bar scene, where mixologists are introducing cocktails and beverages that include pickles of some sort and more importantly the brine. Thought to have originated in Brooklyn’s hipster bar scene, a Pickleback gets you two shots: one with Irish Whiskey and the chaser is pickle juice. No, don’t look so horrified – that was my reaction until I tried the concoction and it is actually rather addicting within its weirdness. Because you might as well know, pickle juice is being fêted as the new superfood, not only because fermented foods are rather splendid for your gut, but the salt in the brine acts as a stabilizer. It accentuate flavors and makes for an awesome cocktail – try a dill pickle martini or a pickled margarita. And you guessed it; you can now buy Gordy’s Fine Brine, pickle in a can. The possibilities are endless now.
The list doesn’t conclude with the ever-loving pickled cucumber for the self-processed, home canning picklers around the world. There’s a veritable veggie arsenal that is totally pickle-worthy and when combined in a recipe, balances all kinds of dishes. The most common are red cabbage, beets, radishes and peppers (sweet and hot), onions and even tomatoes. Same goes for carrots, asparagus and corn for relish.
In European and Middle Eastern countries artichoke hearts together with the eggplant, are ever popular for pickling. And let’s not forget that’s were capers, grape leaves and a most of the olive varieties originate from. We know the folks from down South have a huge love for anything pickled – who hasn’t had some pickled okra or green beans?
PICKLED INDIAN CAULIFLOWER
Jump onto the pickle express and work with turnips, kale, green onions and ramps which are more pungent than scallions but with a subtle, mild garlicky flavor. Ramps are hard to find, but well worth hunting for them, they are truly intoxicating!
Try my Indian pickled cauliflower and these amazing deviled eggs. And just for good measure ol’ fashioned Gardiniera, a medley of vegetables pickled together or Fennel and Apple Pickle.
PICKLED DEVILED EGGS
And on the other side of the pickling spectrum, ripe fruits are also the best choice. I recently found a terrific recipe for pickled raisins which is truly inspirational paired with pork chops, in tacos, ramen noodles bowls and salads. Believe me, the options are endless for a sweet, spicy, sour or salty outcome.